Education & Resources
End of Life Care
Here at Columbia Valley Veterinary Clinic we provide compassionate and professional veterinary care for in-home and in clinic humane euthanasia & consultation services.
For in clinic procedures, our family room is designated to provide comfort for you and your pet. With special soundproofing and a side exiting door, allowing a more private visit.
We can accommodate both in clinic and at home visits for end of life care.
Euthanasia provides a painless, peaceful end for an animal who would otherwise continue to suffer. Our team has received special training to provide your pet with a humane and gentle death. During the procedure, your veterinarian or technician will first inject your pet with a sedative, allowing them to become relaxed, and fall peacefully into a deep sedation sleep. Once we have reached a deep level of sedation, often an IV (intravenous catheter) is placed to give venous access, as the final injection has to go into a vein. The final injection stops the heart, and is an overdose of an anesthetic so the pet experiences no awareness of the end of life.
How do you know if your pet is in pain? An appointment with your veterinarian can help provide you with information about your pet that you may not know or recognize. We utilize a few different quality of life questionnaires that can help you assess how your pet is doing.
Pet quality of life (QOL) scales use a numerical basis for how your pet is feeling. A QOL quiz helps you address different variables in your pet’s life to assess their overall comfort and happiness. Quality of life scales are typically used when a pet has a terminal illness or is at an end of life stage.
A bucket list for your beloved pet allows you to spend precious time focusing on making memories with your furry companion. Many pet owners start bucket lists once a senior pet reaches their final days, or after they’ve been diagnosed with a terminal condition, such as untreatable cancer.
Bucket list:
https://twoheartspetlosscenter.b-cdn.net/wp-content/uploads/2022/07/Bucket-List-Final-2019.pdf
We use Tamarack Crematorium, a local crematorium service, which offers a wide variety of after care options for your pet; including cremation with ashes back, different urn options, or communal cremation where the ashes are spread under the Purcell mountains on their beautiful farmers field.
We believe that your pet deserves to depart with dignity and that is why we use Euthabags. Euthabag supports the AVMA Companion Animal Aftercare Policy that underlines the importance of sensitive handling of pets after their passing, proper containment of the pet. Euthabag is easily customizable with paint, markers, acrylic paint and even pens.
Visit their website for more information: https://www.euthabag.com/
How to Bandage a Horse’s Leg for Swelling
Swelling in the horse's legs can come from many different factors and has multiple forms. The most common forms of this are stocking up and edema due to injury. Stocking up occurs due to impaired circulation, resulting in a pooling up of fluid. Although this may look alarming, it is normally not too serious and resolves itself quickly. Horses in the wild travel big distances, but domesticated horses often spend long periods of time standing or moving very minimally.
Because of this, horses that are stalled overnight or ones that are in smaller paddocks tend to stock up more easily. Horses with allergies, hoof care changes, obesity, dehydration or minimal exercise are prone to stocking up more often. Using standing wraps is often a useful way of helping the swelling to go down.
Standing Wraps: What do I need?
Pillows (No bow Wraps) or Large Gauze wraps, make sure your wraps are wide enough to go from the bottom of the knee to just below their fetlock.
Standing Bandages (often the shedrow ones work best), or vet wrap.
You may also use a liniment under the wrap, as long as there is no wound.
How to Wrap:
Start with pre-rolling your no bow wraps or large gauze pads up.
Place the end of the rolled up pad on the inner part of your horse's leg, with the bulk of it facing outwards.
Before you start to unroll your pads, make sure to always go forwards towards your horse's head, from the inside part of their leg first.
Start to unroll the wraps with even pressure, making sure there are no wrinkles or folds in it.
The finished No bow wrap/ Gauze pads, should be smooth and even.
Next, place the Standing bandages on the inner part of the horse's leg, with the bulk of it towards the outside, going forwards towards their head.
Ideally the placement of this should be about a quarter to a third of the way down from the top of the wrap. If the bandages are short then you can start closer to half way down instead.
Unroll the bandage, going downwards as it unravels. Always make sure you start on the inner part of the leg and go forwards first. Use gentle and even pressure, gently tightening every time you get to the cannon bone. Do not tighten the wrap as you go over the tendons (hind part of the leg) as you do not want to have too much tension and damage their tendons.
Overlap each wrap around by about a third to half of the width of the wrap.
Once you hit the bottom of the No bow wraps or Large gauze wraps, start to go back up the leg.
As the wrap comes to the end, make sure to keep the top of it even as you velcro it together.
Pitts, Laurie. “Standing Wrap How-To.” Practical Horseman, 14 Oct. 2020, practicalhorsemanmag.com/health/standing-wrap-how-to-14725/.
How to Bandage Wrap a Dog’s Foot
Different reasons for bandaging include:
A detached toenail
Burnt or scraped paw pad
Puncture wounds
Infections
Licking Prevention
Supplies Needed:
Non-stick gauze pads or telfa pads
Rolled gauze bandages
Adhesive bandages (such as vet wrap 4 inch)
Adhesive tape ( such as lightplast)
Clean cloths
Warm water
Gentle soaps (such as chlorhexidine, or a betadine wash)
Antibiotic ointment
Nail clippers
Cleaning the Wound:
Gently begin cleaning the wound with a damp, warm cloth or gauze pads.
Use the chlorhexidine or betadine wash to make sure you are getting any debris out. (make sure to dilute this with the proper ratio that is on the bottle).
Make sure to dry the foot well before bandaging as any trapped moisture may lead to more infections and irritations.
Applying the gauze pads:
If there is an open wound you will want to place your telfa pad on (keeping the plastic/shiny side of it towards the wound) first to make sure nothing sticks to it as it heals. Be sure to cover the entire wound with the telfa.
If you are using an ointment, apply this underneath the telfa pad. This will help to keep it from sticking, along with providing some microcrobrial protection.
Securing the gauze pads:
Using the rolled gauze, gently wrap around and over the telfa pads, overlapping each layer by at least half the width of the wrap. This will become the first layer.
Repeat this for a second time, starting at the dogs toes and working up their leg just past the wound. If there is swelling, continue up the entire leg.
Do not completely cover the tips of the toes, unless the nails have been trimmed as you may cause pressure sores.
Having two layers helps to keep the first telfa and gauze wraps in place, while alsohelping to reduce swelling.
Applying the Adhesive bandaging material:
Using the vet wrap, wrap your dog's foot starting at the toes, and going up to the point of the rolled gauze. Make sure to overlap this by at least half its width again.
Make sure not to wrap too tight as you do not want to cut off their circulation.
Secure the bandages using the adhesive tape (lightplast). Put one strip along the top of the wrap to hold it up, with another at the bottom of their foot for traction.
Tips for keeping the bandage on:
Have your dog wear a cone to keep them from chewing the bandages.
Put a waterproof bootie on when your dog goes outside to keep the bandage from getting wet.
If you leave the tips of your dog’s toes out, keep a close eye on them for any swelling.
Make sure you can fit two fingers in the wrap at all times for tightness.
Change the bandage regularly (every day or two).
Purely pets. “A Comprehensive Guide on How to Properly Wrap a Dog’s Paw.” Purelypetsinsurance.co.uk, Purely Pets, 2024, www.purelypetsinsurance.co.uk/blogs/a-comprehensive-guide-on-how-to-properly-wrap-a-dogs-paw/. Accessed 30 Oct. 2024.
Preparing Livestock and Pets for Wildfire: A Guide to Safety
Wiildfire season is upon us, it's crucial to ensure the safety of our beloved animals. We hope this guide to help you prepare your livestock and pets:
1. Create an Emergency Plan
Evacuation Routes: Know safe routes for quick evacuation.
Safe Havens: Identify safe locations where you can take your animals, such as barns, fairgrounds, or animal shelters.
Transport Readiness: Keep vehicles and trailers ready for transportation.
2. Prepare Emergency Kits
For Pets:
Leashes, collars, and carriers
Food, water, and bowls
Medications and first aid supplies
Comfort items like blankets or toys
Copies of medical records and microchip information
For Livestock:
Halters and lead ropes
Food, water, and buckets
Medications and veterinary records
Identification tags or markers
3. Create a Defensible Space
Around Livestock Areas: Clear brush and flammable materials from barns and corrals.
For Pets: Keep pet enclosures and areas clear of debris.
4. Stay Informed
Monitor Weather and Fire Updates: Keep an eye on local news and weather channels.
Sign Up for Alerts: Enroll in local alert systems for timely notifications.
5. Have a Backup Plan
Neighbor Assistance: Coordinate with neighbors for help with evacuation if you're not home.
Alternative Shelters: Know alternative locations where you can temporarily house your animals.
Remember, your animals depend on you for their safety. Being prepared can make all the difference. Stay safe, and take action now to protect your furry and feathered friends. Stay safe!
Raw Food Diet for Pets
1. What is a Raw Food Diet?
Definition: A raw food diet for pets typically includes uncooked meat, bones, organs, fruits, and vegetables. It's designed to mimic what animals might eat in the wild.
Types:
BARF (Biologically Appropriate Raw Food): Includes raw meat, bones, fruits, and vegetables.
Prey Model Raw: Focuses on whole prey animals and omits fruits and vegetables.
2. Perceived Benefits
Natural Diet: Mimics the natural diet of wild animals.
Dental Health: Chewing on raw bones can help clean teeth.
Improved Digestion: Some owners report better digestion and smaller stools.
Healthy Coat and Skin: Can lead to a shinier coat and healthier skin.
Increased Energy Levels: Pets may show increased vitality and energy.
3. Potential Risks
Nutritional Imbalance: Without proper knowledge, diets can be unbalanced and lack essential nutrients.
Bacterial Contamination: Raw food can carry bacteria like Salmonella, E. coli or Listeria, which can be harmful to pets and humans.
Bone Hazards: Bones can cause choking, blockages, and/or fractured teeth.
4. Safety Tips
Consult a Veterinarian: Always consult with your vet, or a veterinary nutritionist, before starting a raw diet.
Balanced Diet: Ensure the diet includes all necessary nutrients and supplements. Some resources are listed below for recommended supplements designed by veterinary nutritionists.
Hygiene: Practice good hygiene, such as washing and disinfecting hands, surfaces, and dishes thoroughly after each meal. Clean the muzzle of your pet after meal time.
Immune compromised: Do not feed if there are any people or animals in the household with a compromised immune system. This includes the young and old, as well as anyone on immune suppressants.
5. Monitoring Your Pet
Regular Check-ups: Schedule regular vet visits to monitor your pet’s health and dietary needs.
Observation: Keep an eye on your pet’s weight, coat condition, energy levels, and stool quality.
6. Common Myths
Bones are Always Safe: Bones are so hard they can cause fractured teeth and may have sharp edges which irritate or perforate the gastrointestinal system.
Raw Diets are Always Healthier: A raw diet isn't automatically healthier; it must be well-balanced and appropriate for the pet and household.
All Pets Thrive on Raw Food: Not all pets may benefit from a raw diet; individual needs vary.
7. Resources for Further Reading
https://www.albertaanimalhealthsource.ca/content/raw-food-diets-article-dr-danny-joffe
My Pet Grocer | Home Cooked Pet Food Made Easy – mypetgrocer.com
VNC putting your pet's health first .. for more than 20 yrs! | PetDiets
CVMA Position
The Canadian Veterinary Medical Association (CVMA) finds there is compelling evidence for health risks to pets fed raw meat-based (RMB) pet food products, including raw meat-based diets (RMBD), and to humans who are in contact with such products or in contact with pets that consume them. The CVMA holds that the scientific evidence of animal and human health risks in feeding RMB pet food products outweighs any purported benefits.
Disclaimer
Always consult with your veterinarian before making significant changes to your pet’s diet. This information sheet is for educational purposes and not a substitute for professional veterinary advice.
How to Safely Give Your Pet Pills
Administering pills to pets can be a bit of a challenging task, but with the right approach, you can make the process smooth and stress-free for both you and your pet. Here are some tips to help you safely give your pet pills:
1. Consult Your Veterinarian
Dosage and Instructions: Ensure you understand the correct dosage and whether the medication should be given with food or on an empty stomach.
Special Instructions: Some pills cannot be crushed or split, so always check with your vet.
2. Use Treats
Hiding Pills in Food: You can also hide the pill in a small amount of food like cheese, peanut butter, or wet food. Make sure the entire pill is consumed.
If your pet is catching on, try and give a pill free treat first, then the treat with the pill, and then quickly offer another treat. The goal is they will quickly swallow the second treat in order to get the third.
3. Manual Pill Administration
Hold Your Pet Securely: If your pet is small, wrap them in a towel to prevent movement. For larger pets, have someone help hold them still.
Open the Mouth: Gently tilt your pet's head back and open their mouth by pressing down on the lower jaw or gently squeezing behind the upper canine teeth.
Place the Pill: Place the pill as far back on the tongue as possible, then close the mouth immediately.
Encourage Swallowing: Gently stroke your pet’s throat or blow on their nose to encourage swallowing. You can also offer a small amount of water using a syringe (without a needle) to help the pill go down.
4. Be Positive and Calm
Use a Calm Tone: Speak softly and calmly to your pet to reduce their anxiety.
Reward Your Pet: After successfully administering the pill, give your pet a treat or praise to create a positive experience.
5. Observe Your Pet
Check for Compliance: Make sure your pet has swallowed the pill and hasn't spat it out. Watch for a few minutes after administration.
Monitor for Side Effects: Be aware of any adverse reactions and contact your vet if you notice anything unusual.
Additional Tips
Timing: Stick to a consistent schedule for giving medication.
Practice: If you're new to giving pills, practice with a small treat to get comfortable with the technique.
Pill Crushers and Splitters: If your vet approves, these tools can help make pills easier to administer, especially for pets that resist whole pills.
Pet Pillers/Poppers: This tool can be useful to help place the pill at the back of the throat with manual pill administration.
Always consult your veterinarian if you're having trouble administering medication or if you have any concerns about your pet's health.
How to Clean Your Pet's Ears Safely
Regular ear cleaning is essential for your pet's health and comfort.We hope this simple guide will help you clean your pet's ears safely:
1. Gather Your Supplies
Ear Cleaner: Use a vet-approved ear cleaning solution.
Cotton Balls or Pads: Avoid using cotton swabs, as they can damage the ear canal.
Towel: To keep your pet steady and clean up any mess.
2. Prepare Your Pet
Create a Calm Environment: Choose a quiet space and keep your pet relaxed.
Restraint: Gently hold your pet or have someone help you if needed.
3. Apply the Ear Cleaner
Lift the Ear Flap: Hold your pet's ear flap upright and carefully squeeze the ear cleaner into the ear canal until it is pooling out.
Massage the Base: Gently massage the base of the ear to help loosen any debris or wax. You should hear a squishing sound, which means the solution is working.
4. Clean the Ear
Wipe Away Debris: Let your pet shake their head, then use a cotton ball or pad to wipe away any visible dirt or wax from the ear flap and outer ear canal.
Repeat if Necessary: If your pet's ears are very dirty, you may need to repeat the process.
5. Check for Signs of Infection
Look for Redness, Odor, or Discharge: If you notice any of these signs, contact your veterinarian, as they may indicate an ear infection or other health issue.
6. Reward Your Pet
Give Treats and Praise: Reward your pet with treats and praise to create a positive association with ear cleaning.
Important Tips
Frequency: Clean your pet's ears as recommended by your vet, usually once a month or as needed.
Avoid Over-Cleaning: Over-cleaning can irritate your pet's ears, so only clean them when necessary.
Consult Your Vet: Always consult your vet before using any new ear-cleaning product.
Regular ear cleaning can help prevent infections and keep your pet comfortable. Remember, if you're unsure about how to clean your pet's ears or if they have chronic ear issues, please give us a call to book an appointment with one of our team. 🐶🐱👂✨
How to Remove a Tick
Preparation
Tweezers or a tick removal tool
Rubbing alcohol
A ziploc bag
Rubber gloves
Disinfectant or an antibiotic cream, you can get this from your vet.
Removal
Put on a pair of rubber gloves.
If using tweezers, grab the tick as closely to your dog's skin as possible.
If using the tick removal tool, gently press the remover against your dog's skin near the tick. Slide the notch of the remover underneath the tick.
Slowly but steadily, pull the tick out of your dog's skin, making sure that you do not lose its head throughout this.
Do not twist or crunch the tick as you may lose its head inside your dog's skin.
After Care
Drop the tick into a ziploc bag with rubbing alcohol in it, leave it in the alcohol for 24 hours to kill it.
Wash your hands.
Note the location and date you found the tick.
Apply disinfectant or antibiotic cream to the tick bite.
Clean your tweezers or tick removal tool with rubbing alcohol.
Submission of tick
Consider submitting the tick for identification through eTick.
Symptoms of tick-borne illnesses
Joint pain
Lethargy
Weight loss
Decreased appetite or thirst
Inflammation on or around the bite
Neurological issues
If your dog starts to show symptoms of a tick-borne illness or if you lose a piece of the tick inside your dog’s skin, contact your vet immediately.
Tips and Tricks to Apply Eye Medication
1. Preparation
A soft washcloth.
Warm water.
The eye medication.
Wash hands thoroughly.
2. Applying the eye drops
Gently wipe away any debris around the eye with a warm, damp washcloth.
Hold the eye drop bottle using your thumb and index finger. You can try and rest the side of your hand on the top of your pet's head for more stability.
With your other hand, use your thumb to pull down your pet's lower eyelid gently. This will act like a pouch to later hold the eye drops.
Hold the eye drop bottle close to the eye, but do not touch the surface of the eye.
Squeeze the prescribed amount of drops the vet has given you onto your dog's eye, aiming to hit the center.
Release your dog's head.
They will then blink, spreading the eyedrops around the eyes surface.
*For horses, you can use a 1cc syringe with the needle removed from the hub to help administer the drops from a distance- please contact the Vet for guidance on this.
3. Applying the eye ointment
Gently wipe away any debris around the eye with a warm, damp washcloth.
Apply a thin strip of the ointment onto your clean finger or a q-tip.
With your other hand, use your thumb to gently pull down your pet's lower eyelid. This will act like a pouch to later hold the eye ointment.
Gently “roll” the ointment off of your finger or q-tip into the lower eyelid pouch.
Tips
If your pet's eye is painful, you may need an extra person to help hold them still; large dogs can sit a corner, while small dogs/cats can be swaddled into a blanket
Make sure to keep the applicator tip of the bottle clean as you do not want to add any debris into the eye.
Make sure to not touch the eye or eyelid with the applicator tip.If the applicator does come into contact with the eye or any other surface, clean the tip by wiping it off with a clean cloth. You can also ask your Vet for any specific cleaning instructions.
How to Collect a Dog’s Stool Sample at Home
1. Preparation
· Plastic Gloves.
· Plastic Ziploc bag, poop bag or sealable container. The vet may give a container to use instead.
· Plastic disposable spoon.
· Have a pen or marker for labeling.
2. Guidance
· Grab the poop bag or Ziplock bag and flip it inside out.
· Put your dog on a leash and take them outside as you normally would. If your dog will not poop on the leash, then let them off but stay close to them to make sure you are collecting the right feces.
· Collect the feces as you normally would with the poop bag or use a plastic disposable spoon to transfer it into the plastic sealable container.
· Make sure to seal the bag or container and bring it directly to the vet if possible. If you cannot bring it straight away, store it in the fridge until you can. Try and take it to the vet as soon as possible as fresh, uncontaminated samples are always best.
· Label the container or bag afterwards with your name, your dog’s name and the date and time of collection.
· Try to avoid any contact between the feces and urine to prevent contamination.
How to Collect a Dog’s Urine Sample at Home
1. Preparation
· Have a clean container for collecting the urine; a short shallow dish or a soup ladle works well.
· If you are collecting regular samples, a device can be purchased from Amazon:
· Have plastic gloves.
· A pen for labelling.
· The urinalysis container given by the vet.
· A syringe or funnel to transfer the urine from the catching tray to the urinalysis container.
2. Guidance
· Once everything is prepared, make sure it is thoroughly cleaned and dried to avoid any contaminants in the sample. In the winter, prevent snow from entering the sample.
· Check to see if the Vet has given a specific time of retrieval and try to collect the sample as close to this time as possible.
· Put your plastic gloves on or if you do not have any, wash your hands before and afterwards.
· Attach your dog’s leash and take them to their normal toilet spot
· Wait until your dog starts to urinate and then quickly and calmly place the tray into the stream.
· Transfer the urine into the sample collection container the vet has given you.
· Label the sample container with your name, your dog’s name, and the time and date the sample was collected.
· If possible, take the urine sample directly to the vet, or store it in the fridge until you can drop it off.
3. Tips
· Ask your Vet beforehand how much urine they need in the sample.
· Collect the whole sample at once; try to avoid collecting multiple small amounts each time they urinate.
· If you are struggling to collect the sample at home, please contact us, as we can perform a different collection technique called a cystocentesis.